My ITA Airways flight landed near Palermo on a Sunday morning. After leaving my baggage and ten euros with a friendly souvenir shop owner, I set out, masstimes.org in hand, to fulfill my Sunday obligation. I ended up at the Church of the Gesù.
Late Baroque and Jesuit, it is perhaps the most beautiful church I have ever seen. Gilded white marble rests upon black backing, a dramatic contrast that spans the entire interior, floor to ceiling. There are cherubs everywhere, and the ceiling frescoes are cosmic, depicting last things.
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