The Island Where Religious Freedom Began

The five-hour drive south from New Jersey ends in a place where the world suddenly grows quiet. Roads narrow. Tall pines give way to salt marshes. And eventually the land itself thins until the Potomac River seems to surround you on all sides.

Late on the afternoon of March 24, I crossed onto St. George’s Island as the sun began its descent. The sky ignited in bands of gold and crimson. The wide waters of the Potomac mirrored every color, turning the river into molten copper as the sun slipped toward the Chesapeake Bay.

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