Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem is a carved stone in the shape of a goblet. Carved into the cup of the goblet is a circle within a cross within a circle. It’s called the Omphalos, and it represents the center or “navel” of the world. According to tradition going back to at least the fourth century, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher stands in the place where Jesus was crucified, buried, and resurrected. For Christians, there is a centrality to this place. Strangely though, while Israel is at war, the streets surrounding it are quite empty.
In November 2023, shortly after war broke out between Hamas and Israel, I traveled to Israel with Mike Cosper to assist with audio and photography for The Bulletin podcast. Our hotel in Jerusalem was within walking distance of the Old City, and between scheduled interviews and day trips, we visited the walled city and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.
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