In a Small Fishing Town, Catholic Culture on Full Display

At the very tip of Cape Cod, tiny Provincetown, Mass., has changed considerably over the decades. The place where the Pilgrims first landed in 1620, only to continue on to the more famous Plymouth after the environs proved too inhospitable, is today primarily known as a seaside resort town attracting members of the L.G.B.T. community. But a few generations ago, before the artists moved here to paint the sailboats bobbing in the bay and began transforming the town, it was home to a robust Portuguese fishing population.