How Gefilte Fish Got Its Groove Back

The Gefilteria came into the world as other high-profile efforts to redefine and/or modernize traditional components of Jewish life were underway. Take for instance, the New American Haggadah, released in 2012 with contributions from among others The Atlantic’s Jeffrey Goldberg, which sought to make relevant and demystify the traditional Passover user’s guide. Or the launching of Jewish delis like Mile End and Kenny & Zuke’s, in Brooklyn and Portland, respectively, which were framed as more ethically-minded alternatives to standards like Katz’s Deli.