When we turned onto a dirt road leading into the village, our hearts filled with excitement. On the right, terraced cliffs of yellow loess were dotted with cave homes. Below us stretched a green carpet of young wheat and cabbage. Above every doorframe were pasted new paper couplets. Here, we felt, was everything weâ??d been looking for. Here at last, in Chinaâ??s north-central Shaanxi Province six hundred miles from Beijing, was traditional China.