Montreal's Kosher Bootleggers

A few years ago, on a visit to Montreal, a friend invited me for Shabbat dinner. “Bring wine,” he said.

In Montreal, all wine must be sold in Société des Alcools de Quebec-owned stores, but the nearest SAQ shop had only one shelf of kosher wine, and only two types of wine on it: Kedem Red or Kedem Chablis. I phoned my friend and got the address of a kosher supermarket, hoping that it would have something a little less Kedemy.