THE WINTER LIGHT was fading to gold near the Western Wall when a young Orthodox Jew with curls the color of Jerusalem stone approached an elderly pilgrim clad in suede boots and a Gucci leather jacket. The boy tried to tie a teffilin — a black leather box with Torah verses inside — around the American’s arm. The gesture was not necessarily altruistic; he was hoping for a donation in return. The man resisted. The boy tried another approach.
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